Molise

What’s so special?

Molise (Moh-LEE-say) is Italy’s “newest” region. It’s also the butt of a national joke that suggests it doesn’t really exist, since no one knows anyone who’s ever been there. But it’s exactly that lack of fame – among Italians or anyone else – that makes this small region a unique gem well worth your time and effort. In fact, if you’re looking for a treasure hunt in which discovering some new off-the-beaten-path experience is part of the adventure, Molise is the perfect choice. Those who venture into the area report that this is a place you have to throw your plans out the window. There’s always going to be something you didn’t expect and which you want to spend extra time exploring.

About Molise

Until 1963, Molise was joined with its neighbor in a single region called Abruzzo e Molise. While Abruzzo has a bit more international prominence, Molise is now blazing its own trail. In fact, hiking trails are one of the things Molise is best known for. Located on the eastern coast, bounded by the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains, Molise is full of natural wonders crisscrossed by streams, lakes, rugged mountains, and isolated villages. Olive groves and sweeping fields of wheat add to the picturesque vistas across the region.

It’s also an incredibly diverse region geographically, with plenty to wow hikers, rock climbers, cyclists, and beach bums. For such a small region, Molise also has an unexpectedly high concentration of viaducts and castles that are a photographer’s dream.

Getting Around

Some of Molise’s relative obscurity is due to it being a bit more difficult to access. It’s one of only three regions without an international airport; the closest are those in Foggia or Bari (in Puglia), Pescara (in Abruzzo), or Rome (in Lazio). Molise also has some of the toughest rural roads in the country. Despite this, renting a car is likely your best bet for exploring anything beyond the coast. If rail is your preference, Trenitalia connect the seaside city of Termoli with major stops from Milan to Bari, along Italy’s east coast.

The area is also good for hiking or cycling trips. A network of ancient grassy herding paths crisscrosses the inland parts of the region.

Major Cities and Towns

Campobasso: The capital of the region, this city sits at the point where the mountains start to ease into the plains running toward the sea, providing some great vistas for visitors. The largest town in the region, it’s a good base for exploring. The city itself is home to some archaeological sites from the Lombard and Samnite times, as well as a quaint piazza and a collection of Romanesque and Gothic churches. Castle lovers will enjoy the Castello Monforte, which is the anchor of the Old Town.
Isernia: Still using the original Roman layout, Isernia is one of the largest towns in Molise. It sits high on a rocky outcrop in the Apennine Mountains and has some museums dedicated to the ancient history and archeology of the area. All told, it’s a quiet, though central, location for exploring the surrounding area.
Termoli: Although less crowded than other Adriatic beach towns, this coastal gem is perhaps the most visited spot in Molise. Its pastel-colored old town is a treat for any wandering photographer as are the seaside ramparts, fortress, and cathedral. The nearby beaches are broad and sandy. This is also the area where you’ll find trabucchi, traditional fishing platforms, many of which have been converted into delicious seafood restaurants.
Bagnoli del Trigno: On the official “Most Beautiful Villages of Italy” list, this town is perched on and around a dramatic stone mountain spire topped by a castle.

Civitacampomarano: This tiny hilltop town of only 400 inhabitants is setting itself out as the street art capital of Molise. Walls, doors, and rooflines across the town are painted in a patchwork of dazzling displays and the town puts on an international art festival every September, known as CVTà Street Fest, that draw thousands of visitors. The town also has several nice churches and a medieval castle worth exploring.
Frosolone: Nearly wiped off the map by an earthquake in 1805, the town has been rebuilt into a colorful and quaint charmer in the Molise highlands. It is famous for its bladesmiths who specialize in handmade knives and scissors.
Oratino: Another of Molise’s entries on the “Most Beautiful Villages of Italy” list, this whitewashed community rests on a picturesque cliff with great views over nearby valleys. The town is famous for its stonecutters and sculptors. There’s a small ducal palace that can still be visited in the town, which was the residence of the local leaders during the Middle Ages. Just outside of the village, on a high rocky pinnacle, the Tower of Oratino is also worth a visit for some stunning views.
Cerro al Volturno: This small village is basically a fortified rock topped with a fortress that overlooks the heavily wooded valley. The nearby Abbey of San Vincenzo—with both ancient ruins dating back to the 8th century and a modern abbey that still houses a small group of Benedictine nuns—is one of the region’s most photographed.
Venafro: This ancient village was originally settled by the Samnites, a group that often interacted and battled with the nearby Roman Empire in its early days. For centuries, the town has been well known for both its olive oil and wines. Visit the Venafro Olive Tree Regional Park, which was created to protect the olive pressing heritage of the region or wander the medieval streets and nearby Pandone Castles.

Food and Wine

As one might expect, the cuisine of Molise mirrors the area’s rustic charm. It’s simple, homey, but often quite spicy. Vegetables are regular the stars of the dishes, with zucchini, artichoke, eggplant, and peppers common ingredients. Legumes like beans, chickpeas, and cicerchie – a large, flat, heart-shaped bean that’s tastes like a cross between a fava bean and a pea – are popular too. Those looking for a plate that is a bit more elevated may find truffles to be a local treat.

Spelt flour is a regional favorite, giving a slightly tangy flavor to some local breads and pastas. This is also the region where fusilli originated, and fusilli a la Molise – pasta covered in a rich lamb ragu – is a regional favorite. Crioli alla campuasciana is also a regional specialty, with the thick spaghetti-like crioli coated in a simple tomato sauce or a white wine sauce tossed with prosciutto.

As cheeses go, caciocavallo di agnone is a pear-shaped hard cheese that’s mild and sweet when young, but it develops spicy undertones as it ages. Also closely connected with the region is scamorza, a stretched curd cheese similar to mozzarella, that is sometimes sold as a smoked variety as well. Smoked or not, scamorza is a great grilling cheese.

For those colder nights in the mountain, hearty dishes like ajelle cu le patane – roasted lamb and potatoes – is a treat, as is the traditional fennel soup. Molise street food is dominated by pampanella, a pork fillets coated is chili paste and grilled to juicy perfection. Of course, on the coast, seafood is everywhere, and everyone should try eating at a trabucchi restaurant perched above the waves.

For dessert, try cippillati (ravioli baked with sour cherries) or the simple countryside favorite, mostarda d’uva, which is a traditional grape jam served with bread.

Molise's signature wine is Tintilia, a deep red with ancient roots native to the region. Other common reds include Montepulciano and Aglianico. Whites include Trebbiano Toscano and Bombino Bianco.

Must See and Do

Ski the Campitello Matese resort, which sits on the slopes of Mount Miletto, the highest peak of Massif Matese at more than eight thousand feet tall. The entier area is a haven for skiers and snowboarders in the winter and mountain bikers in warmer weather.
The WWF’s natural oasis of Guardaregia-Campochiaro is home to a wide range of animal life, such as eagles, wolves, and roe dear, as well as impressive waterfalls, rock formations, and a wooded canyon well worth exploringn.
Those looking for more hiking routes can explore the primordial forests of the Collemeluccio Reserve, a UNESCO natural heritage protected area.
Park the car and head out on foot to explore Molise’s network of tratturi, the ancient grassy paths used to move livestock herds between seasonal pastures. The make for great hiking trails and the perfect way to get even further off the grid.
The region’s beaches are less crowded and just as nice as those you’d find in Puglia or Abruzzo, so sit back and enjoy the sun or take a dip in the bright blue waters. For dinner, don't miss the opportunity to eat on one of the picturesque trabbuchi that's been converted to seafood restaurant.
Explore Molise’s love of bagpipes at the International Bagpipe Museum in the mountain town of Scapoli and learn about the rich musical tradition this ancient instrument plays in the region’s culture.

More information:

Italy’s official tourism website, Molise page.
YouTube Video playlist of must-visit places in Molise
As always, contact Always Travel for more information and to plan your trip!

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