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Apulia

Puglia

What’s so special?

Though technically called Apulia in English, many English-speakers default the Italian Puglia (pronounced POO-lee-a) when talking about the region. Regrettably, this stunning area isn’t high on the bucket list of many American travelers, though. And that’s a crying shame that needs to be corrected!

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Sun swept beaches, azure blue oceans, rolling hills, vast olive groves and vineyards, and a rich ancient and medieval history are just the some of the reasons to come to this region. But in Puglia, it’s also the human touch that draws you in. Here you’ll find borghi, traditional villages where religious festivities resonate with ancient folk traditions; masseria, fortified traditional manor farms that today are often turned into restaurants, villas, spas, and agrotourism destinations celebrating the natural tastes and feel of rural Italy; and trulli, whitewashed stone cottages with conical roofs that are an architectural icon of the region. There is so much to see and do in Puglia, you could seriously spend two weeks here and still have reason to come back again and again.

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About Puglia

The heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia is really a large peninsula, giving it Italy’s longest coastline, full of beautiful beaches along both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. It’s a region where nothing much more than 30 miles from the sea.

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Life in Puglia tends to run at a slower pace, even by Italian standards. Expect long siestas during the mid-day; shops will only be open in the morning and then again in the late afternoon. No matter how rushed we might be as tourists, that won’t matter to locals. So, this is the perfect time to take off the watch, hush the cell-phone calendar alerts, and just enjoy the slower pace of life.

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Compared to some other areas of Italy, there is a lot less English spoken in Puglia. You’ll still find English in tourist hotels and many restaurants, but this is a very Italian area of the country. It’s one of the places Italians themselves flock to for August vacations (so, be wary of the crowds if you’re planning a visit during this time). There are also two main regional dialects that are widely spoken in Puglia: Pugliese, a Neapolitan dialect used in the northern areas, and Salentino, a Sicilian dialect used in the southern areas. There are also several lesser common dialects used in particular areas. But, don’t let the language put you off. If you’re willing to engage in charades to supplement your rudimentary Italian, the locals will certainly be willing to play along! It really is hard to be stressed when life is this perfect.

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Getting Around

Arriving in Puglia, you’ve got two airport options: Bari toward the northern part of the peninsula or Brindisi about a two-hour drive south. Bari also has easy rail connections to Rome and other parts of Italy, if you’re stopping somewhere else first. Both cities are also popular cruise ship stops and both have ferry connections with Greece and Albania.

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Unlike most other regions of Italy though, Puglia really is a region where we’d recommend you rent a car. While many of the bigger cities and towns are on the rail system, there are four different rail lines operated by different companies. So, depending on where you want to get to – and from where – you may need to do some switching, which can get tiresome. Also, there are worthy sites that aren’t on any of the rail lines, so if you don’t have a car, you better figure out the bus system. In the end, the freedom of a car and the ability to explore all the region has to offer are well worth it if you plan to go anywhere beyond the major cities. And while Italy is famous for some crazy drivers, that reputation tends to play out in the urban areas. Puglia’s good country coastal road network is much more tame.

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For the more adventurous, cycling tours throughout the region are also growing in popularity, with options for all levels of riders.

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Major Cities and Towns

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  • Bari – The largest city on the Adriadic Sea and the capital of Puglia, many people fly into Bari but skip over it as a destination in and of itself, which is a shame. Bari’s old town is a fascinating collection of old-world streets, with historic architecture and plenty of hidden gems just waiting to be stumbled upon, plus an impressive castle that is well worth the visit.
     

  • Polignano a Mare – One of the more posh beach locations, the town sits on a cliff overlooking the sea. It is famous for the many grottos that dot the cliff face and run underneath the town, as well as it’s well-preserved Roman Old Town.
     

  • Ostuni – This iconic “white town” sits perched on a hill overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The old town is a maze of whitewashed houses and winding streets reminiscent of an old Arab bazaar. Navigating the labryinth of alleys, stairs, courtyards, and squares may be confusing, but that's part of the fun. Ostuni is also reputed to have some of the best dining in all of Puglia.
     

  • Brindisi – Lying at the eastern end of the famous Appian Way, this city was one of the Roman Empire’s main east coast ports on the Italian Peninsula. Today it’s still an important seaport with a charming old town and a wide array of art-filled churches and basilicas to explore. When cruise ships are not in town, you may feel like the only tourists, which makes it a perfect place to base yourself for a while as you make daytrips across the region.
     

  • Lecce – Although there are famous landmarks, like the well-preserved Roman amphitheater in the heart of the old town, Lecce is one of those cities that is best for simply wandering. The golden sandstone buildings of the historic center glow in the sunlight as you while away the day hopping from lunch at a newly discovered trattoria, to shopping for jewelry or handmade bags in a local shop, to grabbing a glass of wine as you watch the sun go down. In the evening, join the locals on their evening passeggiata – the casual communal pre-dinner stroll without any real destination or point, other than simply enjoining being out among your friends and neighbors. Now that’s Italian!
     

  • Gallipoli – Not to be confused with the infamous WWI battle that took place in Turkey, this Gallipoli is a small fishing village that has found great popularity as a summer destination for Italy’s gay community. So, expect vibrant night life from May to October and slow, beach-laden days that are ideal for recouperation. The village’s cute old town sits on a small island that is connected to the rest of the town by a bridge, just adding to the charm of this seaside getaway.
     

  • Taranto – Founded by Spartans in the 8th Century BCE as a Greek colony, this is a beautiful seaside city that is rich in archaeological interests. The city is split in two with its old and new towns connected by a bridge. The city’s strategic point on the Ionian Sea meant it also later became a medieval stronghold against the Turks, which explains why much of the city is so fortified with well-preserved batteries and other protective bulwarks.
     

  • Foggia – The capital of Puglia's northernmost province by the same name, this isn’t typically a destination in and of itself, though there are certainly sites worth seeing. The area was a favorite of Frederick II, the 11th Century Holy Roman Emperor who ruled from Sicily to Jerusalem, so there is a provincial charm and to the city, with old palaces and regal squares. The city is also a popular base for those looking to explore the picturesque Parco Nazionale del Gargano,with it’s sweeping vistas of the rocky coast and access to the nearby Tremiti Islands. 
     

  • Matera – while not actually in Puglia, Matera is just over the boarder in Basilicata, and many people pair this fascinating town with a tour of Puglia. See the Basilicata page for more info.

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Food and Wine

While there’s little that is uniquely Puglian in terms of cuisine, the landscape heavily influences the food in the region. Here, you’ll find some of Italy’s largest stretches of olive groves, so you can bet the olive oil is top notch! With water on nearly every side, seafood is mouthwateringly abundant and fresh. And the wide plains of the region are perfect for growing wheat, so there’s plenty of flour for regional favorites like orecchiette, the local pasta that’s shaped like little pig ears; pettole, which are deep-fried fritters flavored with olives or anchovies; a hearty sourdough bread known as Laterza; and pasticciotti, domed pastries filled with custard. Given its connections to fresh, local ingredients and traditional recipes that honor these ingredients in their glorious simplicity, Puglia is really a great place for fans of the “slow food” movement. Uncomplicated and natural is the way of life here.

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As wines, go, red is king in Puglia. Negroamaro literally means “black bitter” in Italian, and the grape of the same name produces a rich and slightly bitter wine that runs from ruby to violet in color. Other red grape varietals common to the region include Nero di Troia and Primetivo. But quality rosés and some particularly good whites are also on the regional wine list. Verdeca, a white grape found almost exclusively in Puglia, is most commonly known as the base for vermouth, but is also bottled on its own here. Verdeca wines are noted for its herbal and mineral notes that pair perfectly with the daily catch.

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Must See and Do

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  • Visit the UNESCO World Heritage village of Alberobello, in the Itria Valley about 20 minutes from Bari. The area is home to over 100 trulli, the icronic stone hut-like homes with conical roofs surrounded by olive groves and vineyards that are unique to Puglia.
     

  • Honor your childhood good fortune by visiting the tomb of St. Nicholas in Bari (that’s right, that St. Nick!), whose generosity was legendary, as was his penchant for secretly leaving gifts in the middle of the night.
     

  • Explore seaside Roman ruins at the Egnazia Archaeological Park along the coast between Bari and Brindisi or tour the temples and the underground crypts of Taranto.
     

  • Diving enthusiasts should check out the Tremiti Islands, the region’s only island chain, which has been set aside as a nature reserve.
     

  • Go winetasting – or olive oil tasting – along the back roads of the heel’s interior.
     

  • Try your hand at kitesurfing along the “spur” of the boot. The stretch of coastline from Peschici to Vieste, north of Foggia, is world renown as a great spot where wind, wave, and board meet for spectacular water sports.
     

  • Treat yourself to the breadth of masseria experiences, from luxurious day spas in ancient settings to agritourism at its best in a stay on working mill, vineyard, or dairy farm for the truest farm-to-table experience ever!   
     

  • Take in the breathtaking views of the Torre Sant’Andrea, a natural rock arch among white limestone cliffs that drop magically into sapphire blue waters.

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More information:

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